02.08.17
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All along the High Tower

We’re all about big setups here, so when we came across this custom build by Pedal Driven Cycles we were stoked!

You’re looking at an American-made 23.5″ top tube, 22″ wheel frame…yowza!

Peep these specs:

  • 74.5° head tube
  • 71° seat tube
  • 23.5 top tube
  • 14-14.7″ chain stay
  • 12.25 bottom bracket
  • 10″ stand over

Definitely a big bike for a big dude.

Built up for Matt Stahl (who has since dubbed it “The Hightower”) this frame probably has got a lot of bigger guys scratching their chins and contemplating going the custom route.

I know it has for me!

Have a peek at it all put together.

Looks so dialed!

 

*This post is best read with this turned up loud.

02.02.17
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Upsizing a 20-inch Haro XL to OS20

Jack Hoobler got a hold of us recently to tell us about his Haro OS20 that was built up for him by Marysville Bike Shop in Washington state.

According to Jack, the shop is pushing 22 and OS20 wheels in a a big way, even going so far as keeping a large stock of OS20 rims and tires on hand in-store.

What’s interesting about his setup is that Jack’s Haro is actually a 20″ Pro XL with OS20 wheels added to it.

jack-hoobler-haro

The impetus for the “upgrade” was Jack complaining to the folks at the shop about how hard it was to go from his Downhill bike to his 20″.

They suggested that he try out the Doublecross they had built up with OS20 wheels.

However, instead of hopping on the Doublecross, he decided to borrow the wheels and have them installed on his Haro.

The result?

He was skeptical at first about the bottom bracket being too high, but he says the bike now feels perfect. Everything lined up well…including the brakes! He was even able to keep the rear wheel slammed.

jack-hoobler-haro-race

Looks like an awesome setup.

Apparently the Marysville Bike Shop has a couple more OS20 builds/experiments underway as well.

Looking forward to checking them in the (hopefully) near future!

01.23.17
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Interesting tidbits from Indust

Indust got the interwebs buzzing early today with the news that they did another limited run of frames with Pedal Driven Cycles!

The frames are raw and coated in oil to prevent rust (…and look sweet)

The specs are as follows:

  • Headtube: 74 degrees
  • Top Tube: 21-5/8″ or 21-3/4″
  • 12-3/8″ Bottom Bracket
  • 8-7/8″ Stand Over

To top things off, Indust also updated their products page with a bunch of new swag/products to rep the Indust name.

indust-swag

Definitely some good looking stuff there.

Check it.

 

01.21.17
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Tall riders, short cranks

Since my coming of age (BMX-wise) in the 80s, the rule of thumb was: the taller the dude, the longer the crank.

Bigger was better, especially if you were tall and snapping gates at the BMX track on the weekend.

Back then, BMX racers could be seen running 180mm, 185mm…heck, I even remember someone sporting 190s! (DD Leone?)

dd-leone-190s

In freestyle, things were a little different.

Crank arm length didn’t mean too much for tricksters. I think most freestyle guys opted –for the most part– the middle-of-the-road 175s and called it a day.

In flatland, there was a bit more experimentation with crank length.

I believe Dennis McCoy was one of the first to opt for shorter cranks.

The reason?

To help roll out of tricks easier.

dmc-flat

Seems legit. Although how far this was embraced I couldn’t say. I’m guessing it wasn’t that widespread.

Fast forward to the modern day….

In racing, spin-to-win clip pedals and more technical tracks prompted some racers to revert back to shorter 175mm cranks.

In freestyle, not so much change (most were rocking 175s anyway).

Or so I thought.

BMX Union recently posted a tech tip on behalf of Profile Racing that seems to throw some of that conventional thinking about cranks on its head.

Turns out, short cranks might be beneficial for everybody….including tall dudes.

What??!!

Stick with me here.

profile-cranks

According to Profile, the advantages of short cranks are:

1. Shorter cranks allow you to bunny hop higher. As a simple experiment,   try jumping with your feet spread apart, then try with your feet closer together (as if being in a position for pedaling). You can always jump higher with your feet closer together.
2. Ambidextrous spinning: It’s much easier to 180 (360, 540 etc…) both ways with your feet closer together.
3. Lighter weight: The shorter the crank, the less steel used in its tubular construction.
4. More rigid/less flex: Shorter cranks should, in theory, last longer over time because there’s less leverage put upon them.
x

They even have a testimonial from a 6’4″ rider, Zachery Rogers, who sports 165mm cranks on his ride:

I made the move on a recommendation from Matt Coplon. Shorter cranks help move my feet closer together which is a huge benefit with peg clearance vs. size 14 shoes. It also allows for more control over my bike in reference to spins/responsiveness.”

More clearance, control, responsiveness…and higher hops?

Color me intrigued.

Apparently DK already got the memo. Their new 22″ Vega comes stock with 170mm cranks.

When I first saw its spec list I was a bit surprised. But apparently they’re right on trend!

I’m kinda curious to find out how widespread this move is to shorter cranks.

Would you switch to (or do you run) shorter cranks?

 

(Italicized excerpts from BMX Union)